Goat Stew and Mamposteao

Note: Forgive me; I posted this yesterday on my Suzanne Brown weblog from Puerto Rico, but it seems more appropriate for this web journal, so I am double posting for the first time ever. I will be back in New York on Sunday night, so give me a few days to work these recipes out in my head, then the kitchen, and hopefully get them posted by the end of the week. I also realize that there is a very good chance that these recipes will fall outside of the monthly chile theme, but they are so good, I simply couldn't resist breaking away from our regularly scheduled programming..

Bold Claims and Goat Stew
It's 10:00 am in San Juan and I just got back from a rigorous workout at the hotel gym, where I attempted to sweat out of my pickled body the seven hundred cocktails, and five billion calories I've consumed in the past forty eight hours. To say I've been on an eating jag is an understatement; I came here to eat my way through San Juan, and, overachiever that I am, that's just what I've been doing.

Last night we had a superlative dinner at a restaurant in Condado, called Ropa Vieja. I actually went there for the classic dish, ropa vieja, but the goat stew caught both my eye and attention as the owners confidently claimed it was "The Best in the World." Now, I can claim many things about myself; I'm a trustworthy friend, I have a wry sense of humor, I am pretty good in the kitchen, I like to think I'm a decent writer and designer. But, Best in the World??! That's a bold statement, and one you better be able to back up. So, I called them on their brazen claim, and ordered the goat stew with a side of rice and beans, and for a starter, a cazuela of cuttlefish broiled in garlic and wine. Jay--our faithful dining and drinking buddy for the past two evenings, and always open-minded and enthusiastic about new foods and experiences, which is what I love about him--engaged in a lengthy and passionate dialogue with the owner about the difference between Cuban and Puerto Rican rice and beans (for those who care, Cuban is black, Puerto Rican is red), and the next thing we knew, the most delicious dish of rice and bean dish I have ever tasted--Mamposteao--was delivered to our table. Even Jay, who just lost twenty pounds on a low-carb diet, and has ten more to go, couldn't resist throwing Atkins out the window, and dug in to this traditional Puerto Rican dish with gusto. I cannot wait to get back home to make it, test it, and share the recipe.

But let's move ahead to the goat, shall we? (I'm not dismissing the tender, juicy and superbly garlicky cuttlefish, but I have tanning and cocktails by the pool to get to after all). The goat stew--tender pieces of lamb, still on the bone--simmered for hours with tomatoes, and onions, and peppers, and traditional Puerto Rican spices, was so meltingly tender, so stuffed with flavor, that I actually closed my eyes after the first bite, and took a deep breath, like I had just witnessed something incredibly moving. The rice was perfect, and I used it to sop up all the flavorful tomato and lamb broth, and then grabbed a wedge of bread and mopped up the rest; when I was done, all that was left on my plate were the picked-clean lamb bones, and a few bay leaves. I have not had many stews made of goat in my life, but the ones I have had pale in comparison to the dish last night at Ropa Vieja. Of course we are going back this evening to try the actual dish, ropa vieja; if it is anything like the Best in the World Goat Stew, I may never return back to New York.

Suzanne Brown 2-9-08

Ropa Vieja

Ropa Vieja—Spanish for "Old Clothes"—is one of those sexy peasant dishes that made it's way across from Spain, from deep within ships galleys, to the Caribbean islands, and Cuba. Honestly, just the thought of those tattered shreds of beef, bathed in a rich, chile-infused tomato broth, and spooned over fragrant rice gets my heart pounding, and my salivary glands juicing up, like I'm a vampire at a blood bank.

I'm hopping a plane to Puerto Rico on Wednesday morning, and by dinnertime that same day, you can bet dollars to donuts (whatever the heck that means) a big, heaping bowl of ropa vieja will be placed before me like some sacred offering to the Gods. Of course—cholesterol, be damned—I will make short work of that jumble, as well as the two orders of rice and bean chasers I plan on demolishing shortly thereafter. In preparation for my forthcoming Puerto Rican Culinary Olympics, I have a flank steak simmering on the stovetop as I type. It's almost tender, so next comes the spices, which goes without saying are my favorite part. For without big, generous spoonfuls of hot, savory, tantalizing spices, added liberably and lustily to your everyday blah, blah, ho-hum, then tell me, dear reader, what exactly is the point of life?

Ropa Vieja
2 pounds flank steak (or skirt steak)
2 carrots, chopped
3 celery stalk, chopped
2 bay leaves
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 yellow onions, chopped
3 jalapenos, minced
1 green bell pepper, seeded and chopped
Salt (to taste)
1 14.5 oz can diced tomatoes
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

Place the meat in a large stock pot with carrots, celery, bay leaf and enough water to cover by 1-2 inches. Simmer, uncovered, for 2-3 hours, or until meat is very tender.

Allow meat to cool, then remove from broth. Strain broth, discard vegetables and return broth to stockpot and bring to a rolling boil for about a half hour, or until liquid is reduced in half. Meanwhile, shred meat with your a fingers or a fork into rough, stringy pieces, and set aside.

In a large skillet, heat olive oil over medium heat, then add garlic, onions, jalapenos and green pepper. Cook until tender (about 8-10 minutes), then add salt. Add all of the cooked and remaining ingredients to the stockpot and cook for another 10-15 minutes, until flavors are well combined. Serve over white rice, with fried plantains or black beans on the side. And, if you really want to impress, some homemade flan is never a bad idea for dessert.

This recipes serves about 4. Double if you are having a party; this is a great dish to make ahead, and simply reheat before serving.

Suzanne Brown 2.4.08